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What are these Doosan coolant gun/washwand/air blow nozzle options?

I bought a small rv pump, plug it in the wall and hooked a garden hose up to it. Used a receptable plug in that I can turn on with a remote
 
Has anyone who's done this had an issue with the pump getting hot or anything when there's no flow? I'm a bit worried about it running 0 flow.
 
Has anyone who's done this had an issue with the pump getting hot or anything when there's no flow? I'm a bit worried about it running 0 flow.
You only run the wash down hose when you're rinsing the machine. Use a T fitting to allow the flood coolant pump to either feed the machine or the wash down hose. You shouldn't run the pump with the output closed off.
 
This reminds me, I need a new coolant hose for the haas, any suggestions for a good nozzle?
I use a Kurita SP100 spray gun, it's what Japanese machine tool builders such as Makino use.
It took a while to find it but it feels heavy and well built.


Another suggestion is to hang the coolant hose and nozzle inside the front right corner of the machine so that it does not drip outside. I got this idea from Makino and Hermle.

My wash down hose was pressurized whenever the coolant was turned on, so I had to reach beside the spindle to turn off the ball valve when cleaning out the machine. After a close call forgetting to turn the coolant valve back on I added an pneumatic L-type ball valve which is actuated by the unused coolant through spindle button, so when ever you turn off the coolant with M8 or hit reset on the controller it automatically goes back to flood coolant next time.
 
I bought the coolant wash-down gun when I bought my DNM5700. It is a standalone system. I has it's own pump that sits in the spot next to the flood coolant pump. The line and gun on mine were WAY nicer than any do it yourself junk. Mine was $1400 so by the time you bought parts of the same quality actually made for the job it would be as expensive. Also mine was not installed when my machine was delivered. It showed up separate in it's own crate and the install/setup guy put it on and enabled it in the control, it operates from a button on the controller near the flood/tsc and stuff. So add that time to DIY efforts also. I assume you can order the kit from Doosan and install it yourself. It has a holster on the machine and a drain back hose for the inevitable dribbles from the gun. It's a nice kit.

For stuff that annoys me to this day when I spec'ed my machine there was a air blast option or some such. The salesperson told me it was just a hose and it was like $2000. I said it would be much cheaper just to run an air hose to the machine they agreed and I didn't order it. Turns out it was Air blast through the flood coolant nozzles, not an air blast gun. I had a number of brass food part jobs that were no coolant allowed and I had to jury rig and air blast. I wasn't using TSC tools, that does have air blast.

Turns out I noticed that everytime I used the toolsetter there was a blast of air from a empty threaded fitting on the roof of the enclosure that would blow out air. It was so far away it was useless for cleaning the toolsetter but I hooked up a fitting and ran a flexible line to a mag base and attached a loc line fitting. I just added the Mcode that triggered it and I had air blast. Not nearly as nice as it sharing the flood coolant lines but it works. I would assume you can buy the air blast kit from Ellison but they don't like me so it would probably cost me a fortune so I will just use what I rigged up.
 
I bought the coolant wash-down gun when I bought my DNM5700. It is a standalone system. I has it's own pump that sits in the spot next to the flood coolant pump. The line and gun on mine were WAY nicer than any do it yourself junk. Mine was $1400 so by the time you bought parts of the same quality actually made for the job it would be as expensive. Also mine was not installed when my machine was delivered. It showed up separate in it's own crate and the install/setup guy put it on and enabled it in the control, it operates from a button on the controller near the flood/tsc and stuff. So add that time to DIY efforts also. I assume you can order the kit from Doosan and install it yourself. It has a holster on the machine and a drain back hose for the inevitable dribbles from the gun. It's a nice kit.

For stuff that annoys me to this day when I spec'ed my machine there was a air blast option or some such. The salesperson told me it was just a hose and it was like $2000. I said it would be much cheaper just to run an air hose to the machine they agreed and I didn't order it. Turns out it was Air blast through the flood coolant nozzles, not an air blast gun. I had a number of brass food part jobs that were no coolant allowed and I had to jury rig and air blast. I wasn't using TSC tools, that does have air blast.

Turns out I noticed that everytime I used the toolsetter there was a blast of air from a empty threaded fitting on the roof of the enclosure that would blow out air. It was so far away it was useless for cleaning the toolsetter but I hooked up a fitting and ran a flexible line to a mag base and attached a loc line fitting. I just added the Mcode that triggered it and I had air blast. Not nearly as nice as it sharing the flood coolant lines but it works. I would assume you can buy the air blast kit from Ellison but they don't like me so it would probably cost me a fortune so I will just use what I rigged up.
You had to give them a reason not to like you, lol

When did you order your machine and the kit was 1,400?

It's now 3,600 and why I elected to use my "dyi junk" lol
 
You had to give them a reason not to like you, lol

When did you order your machine and the kit was 1,400?

It's now 3,600 and why I elected to use my "dyi junk" lol
Mine was early 2017. Not surprised the kit was so much more considering how nice it was and what prices have done in the intervening time.

Doosan doesn't hate me, Ellison does. Doosan has been awesome. Ellison had the rigger measure a 30 tool machine. I spent thousands having all the doorways including a roll up raised to the dimension they gave me. When they showed up the 40 tool machine was 2" taller. They were very apologetic, said I would get 3 years free Preventive Maintenance and not have to pay two $6500 rigging fees since there would have to be a second trip.

I spent a long weekend paying a carpenter overtime to get the doors raised another 2". After the machine was delivered I got a bill for the second $6500, they also "forgot" the PM assurance and I got nothing, ever. After telling them I was only paying for one $6500 rigging fee, the other was on them they got pissed. They made the rigger eat it. Every time since then I have tried to get parts from Ellison they add 25% over retail and won't budge. 4th axis, transformer, etc. So I have bought them all elsewhere.

You should hear all the stories. The salesman even said they were very angry I wouldn't just eat the extra $6500. So I guess I gave them a reason.
 
I use a Kurita SP100 spray gun, it's what Japanese machine tool builders such as Makino use.
It took a while to find it but it feels heavy and well built.


Another suggestion is to hang the coolant hose and nozzle inside the front right corner of the machine so that it does not drip outside. I got this idea from Makino and Hermle.

My wash down hose was pressurized whenever the coolant was turned on, so I had to reach beside the spindle to turn off the ball valve when cleaning out the machine. After a close call forgetting to turn the coolant valve back on I added an pneumatic L-type ball valve which is actuated by the unused coolant through spindle button, so when ever you turn off the coolant with M8 or hit reset on the controller it automatically goes back to flood coolant next time.
@kerseykyle do you have any more details on this pneumatic ball valve?
 
@kerseykyle do you have any more details on this pneumatic ball valve?


Here is the model that I used, It's sold by many vendors but is the same product, make sure it's the "L-type" configuration.
I chose a pneumatic ball valve because they are quicker to actuate compared to an electric valve (0.75s vs 4s) and could be operated from an air solenoid which I had a spare slot for on the manifold.
It requires two air inputs, one for closing and the other for opening. I connected it to a 5/2 solenoid configuration which exhausts the air on the opposite side of the solenoid. You can also add a proximity switch to detect if the valve fully opened or closed and raise an alarm for failures.

Most of my coolant system uses stainless sanitary fittings but they can be ordered with NPT threads.
 

Here is the model that I used, It's sold by many vendors but is the same product, make sure it's the "L-type" configuration.
I chose a pneumatic ball valve because they are quicker to actuate compared to an electric valve (0.75s vs 4s) and could be operated from an air solenoid which I had a spare slot for on the manifold.
It requires two air inputs, one for closing and the other for opening. I connected it to a 5/2 solenoid configuration which exhausts the air on the opposite side of the solenoid. You can also add a proximity switch to detect if the valve fully opened or closed and raise an alarm for failures.

Most of my coolant system uses stainless sanitary fittings but they can be ordered with NPT threads.

Cool, thanks. You mentioned you're using the TSC button to trigger this. What were you using for the open/close inputs on the valve?
 
Did the other Doosan machines allow you to turn coolant on via the flood hardkey with the doors open? I tried this last night and it doesn't want to turn the coolant on. Or is there a param that also needs to be adjusted?
 
Did the other Doosan machines allow you to turn coolant on via the flood hardkey with the doors open? I tried this last night and it doesn't want to turn the coolant on. Or is there a param that also needs to be adjusted?
Take the door key out or make a copy and stick it in.
 
I'd personally vote for teeing into the flood coolant pump over buying the coolant gun option. We had the coolant pump option installed on a couple Hyundai WIA mills we have and the pump that comes in the kit is a lot smaller and thus less powerful. It would be fine for a smaller mill but on a KH1000 horizontal and a F750 vertical it really doesn't put the coolant where you want to wash down. Better off borrowing a couple Super Soakers from the neighborhood kids.
 
Those of you who have teed off the pump could you post some photos of how you have everything run? I've got the parts list in McMaster and grabbed a washdown gun on eBay. Now just wanna check out some previous installs
 
Here's a video I made of how I went about my system. The threads going in to the pump is a British NPT.

 








 
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