Bought a Pratt & Whitney 12x30, need to move it now.

[VaBob]

We'll, it's at home on the trailer. Safe for now. I am embarrassed to give the next couple pics, but it happened to work out and get home fine.

I will try and take a few more tomorrow when I have light. Need to find the serial number so that I can date the machine and find the literature I'm going to need to properly take care of this machine.

As you may also notice, that is not a 3/4 ton or 1ton, it's my Titan. After calling to confirm the reservation, I asked one last time if I was allowed to use my truck. The lady asked if it was the " big nissan" to which I replied yes. She said that it's fine, and I can use it of that's what I have

The truck did fine. But there was rain, snow, and high wind. Maybe someone was trying to tell me something, I don't know. But it did fine, I balanced the load really well, which is the pat on my own back that it sounds like. And I will work on unloading it tomorrow.

Btw, if you rent one of these just be ready for 2 things. If it's a pintle hitch, it will be the most clapped out and noisey thing that will make you sure you just tipped the trailer up-side-down. And the other is that when you show up to the dock with this snazzy thing, everyone will have questions. And want to know everything about it. Be warned.

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[VaBob]

Pics

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[johnoder]

Need to find the serial number

I think you don't read any replies - but here goes

Serial is on a tag riveted to face of bed casting - right about where the carriage is in the photos

Manuals have been offered twice in your 16 X 30 thread - they cover 12, 14 and 16

Here is what the serial tag looks like

 

[VaBob]

M1694 serial number 267



Thanks for the help. I do make an effort to read all the replies. You guys have way more knowledge than I do, and the way to learn is to listen and gain knowledge from people smarter than me.

What I meant to say by find the literature was that I was going to gather it and put it in one place as print or digital and have it ready to browse.

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[johnoder]

M1694 serial number 267

About 1943

 

[VaBob]

Thats great to know. I wonder if it's 1943 dirt I'm cleaning off this thing. The ways had a good amount of dirt and rust. Scraper, wd40, and copper scrub pad. I'm positive I need to pull the tailstock and carriage. I've still got a lot left so if you guys have any tips or suggestion, I'd love to hear them.

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[johnoder]

Made here - a place that no longer exists

USA Heavy Iron Disappearance

Fair chance it left by their rail siding, so the war time traffic on New Park Avenue had to wait for it to pass

 

[EmGo]

so the war time traffic on New Park Avenue had to wait for it to pass

There are eight million stories in the naked city. This, was one of them.

 

[VaBob]

We'll here is where it ended up at.

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[Phil in Montana]

I was going to ask what Navy pier it sat out on , but I guess the tag says it all, Hi Hi...Phil

 

[VaBob]

Yea, it's not great looking.

I'm thinking about starting a new thread for all the cleanup and repairs. Think that's a good idea?

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[thermite]

Yea, it's not great looking.

I'm thinking about starting a new thread for all the cleanup and repairs. Think that's a good idea?

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Meahh... crud and paint removal is bloody tedious, and most of us have had our fill, plus we've only seen it a few million times arredy. A "before" and "after" is plenty.

"Assessing", then correcting for wear - or yoer decision how much of it to jsut live with/compensate for - is perhapos of more interest?

That said? The REAL value - not only to other P&W owners, but "Old Iron in general", is how you track down, source, make, or patch any damaged, broken, or outright missing critical components.

 

[Phil in Montana]

I have rebuilt a lot worse ,by all means fix it. The PW was a good lathe for the time, a little low in top rpm but a vfd will improve that and will let you run it on 1 phase power if you don't have 3 phase...Phil

 

[thermite]

I have rebuilt a lot worse ,by all means fix it. The PW was a good lathe for the time, a little low in top rpm but a vfd will improve that and will let you run it on 1 phase power if you don't have 3 phase...Phil

Bearings won't let yah bump the RPM up by all THAT much. Not a lot of need, though. HSS / HSS-Cobalt, Tatung, Stellites are comfortable with it just as it WAS. Mere "decorators" or "hobby" lathes, P&W were never.

"Modern" carbides include several that can work at lower RPM, too.

An ignorant RPC would do fine, could outlast more than a few VFD's capacitor banks.

 

[VaBob]

We'll, I'll have to take some pics as I work on the problems then. I've already started on the stuck tailstock quill.



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[Phil in Montana]

The higher rpm is needed for small diameter work, top speed will be around 700 rpm I would guess.... you could push the speed up to 1000 rpm as long as the bearings didn't heat up and you used a small chuck, one would have to be careful.But it is nice to have the higher speed for a good finish on small work...Phil

 

[thermite]

..it is nice to have the higher speed for a good finish on small work...Phil

It's "nice" to have more money, too.



Spindle-bearing part #'s for special-order 10EE of 6,000 or 8000 RPM is allegedly the same as for the 2500 to 4000 RPM bearings. P&W? Maybe not-even CLOSE?

The controls, rotating mass, eyeshot of the work, etc. don't make it an easy substitute for a watchmaker or instrument lathe, either.

Yah NEED that, just mount a smaller "higher speed" lathe - complete - to the tool post. Split-bed Pratt & Whitney, for example, if'n yah want to keep it "in the family"

Saves dedicating bench space to the mini-brute, too.

 

[VaBob]

If Im not mistaken, I think I have a 1000rpm spindle speed. Maybe someone will confirm it? But I get the point you were making.



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[Phil in Montana]

Just looked it up top speed is 1000 rpm, but in the day PW did have a 1500 rpm mod from the factory , ( a pulley change that would also raise the lowest speed by 1.5 ) With the same pulleys you have... a vfd could lower your lowest speed and still give you a higher top speed, but in no case should you exceed the 1500 rpm and check the head stock temps. Lower speeds is nice for threading coarse threads, or threading to a shoulder ..Phil

 

[johnoder]

That's what they are. 12" to 16". If you were buying new and asked, as early as the condensed catalog of 1945 you could have them up it to 1500

I see Phil types faster

If Im not mistaken, I think I have a 1000rpm spindle speed. Maybe someone will confirm it? But I get the point you were making.



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