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Lift and tie down points for an HLV clone

jccaclimber

Stainless
Joined
Nov 22, 2015
Location
San Francisco
Per the title. I originally posted the below thread in rigging, but this may have been a better place. Do any of you have suggestions? Link below.

 
When the rigger arrived with my lathe it was lifted off the flat bed with the straps underneath the chip pan.
The operator and I discussed where to put the lathe. It was hanging there a long time. I prefer rolling moves instead.
 
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super simple.
engine hoist, pick up. place on pallet and bolt down throw strap over bed. wont hurt anything.
use hoist to unload at other end also. or even easier if there is a forklift.
 
Just do what the machinery mover I hire did, lift it by the bed, pinch the leadscrew and detach the cabinet from the bed while you're at it. Its only held on by 3 screws 😅
 
Just do what the machinery mover I hire did, lift it by the bed, pinch the leadscrew and detach the cabinet from the bed while you're at it. Its only held on by 3 screws 😅
I read the first sentence and said that is a terrible thing to recommend. Bad things will happen.

Then is saw the emoji, so how much time and money did it take to repair?
 
I read the first sentence and said that is a terrible thing to recommend. Bad things will happen.

Then is saw the emoji, so how much time and money did it take to repair?

If I recall they claimed no liability and that it wasn’t their fault, but agreed to pay the repair bills. 😂

I think it was about 9. A new leadscrew was 2k from what I recall 😭. As you can imagine the screws failed and the cabinet got detached, it didn’t get off the ground very much so I think that saved a lot. The machine was and still is in very good condition even after it’s mishandling. Still making good tight parts.
 
Wowsers!
I did not think it would beak the screws, I figured the springs would take a beating. Never seen what is in the HLVH, the HXL use the same 3 point type floatation system but the studs used in it are 1/2 diameter and heat treated.
 
super simple.
engine hoist, pick up. place on pallet and bolt down throw strap over bed. wont hurt anything.
use hoist to unload at other end also. or even easier if there is a forklift.
Forklift at the loading end. Neither at the unload end. I could rig a chain hoist, but would have to do so just for this. I’d rather use a couple 2x4 cribbing blocks to get it off the pallet than rig the chain hoist. Obviously end to end not front to back. It does require safe points for a bar, but maybe that’s less of an issue than I expected.
 
Forklift at the loading end. Neither at the unload end. I could rig a chain hoist, but would have to do so just for this. I’d rather use a couple 2x4 cribbing blocks to get it off the pallet than rig the chain hoist. Obviously end to end not front to back. It does require safe points for a bar, but maybe that’s less of an issue than I expected.
rent a forklift, or have a tilt deck tow truck haul it
 
What makes a tilt deck preferable over my drop deck plan? Both are equally available.
tow truck can use the winch and just slide it on, then slide it off with the winch if its up on a skid. did that with a 4500# lathe here and was able to put it almost in place then just push it around the floor of the shop.
 
Follow up on this, I ended up doing it like Adrian's image in my other thread linked in the OP. I had more 2x4 than 2x6, so I had 2x6 under the feet (with holes drilled for them) and 2x4 across several other places. Lift with a fork truck and slings to get it on the pallet at the departing end. There were extra holes in the base, so I lagged it down with 1/2" threaded rod in 4 places then forked onto the trailer by the pallet. Pallet jack to get it set to the right place once on the trailer.

Bunch of straps, then drive home. Ended up with a tilt deck because a drop deck wasn't available. First time using a tilt deck, and I'm not sure how well the tilt damper works with a 2300 lb weight on the back, so put my floor jack under a corner and used that to control the lowering pace. Loosened the straps once tilted, some 3/4" black pipe under one end and a bar under the other to move it a bit, loosen the straps some more, and repeat. Once close enough to the ground pallet jack at one end and pipe at the other until all the way down. Pallet jack into place, and then a bar to get it lowered after disassembling the pallet beneath it.

In case anyone gets the idea to use 2x4 at the ends, I had it briefly on one 2x4 at the headstock end and one at the tailstock end. The 2x4 was visibly bowing. In my case the bottom of the 2x4 could only go 1/2" before hitting something else, so no real danger, but enough to show it wouldn't have been reasonable during transportation.

Turns out the VFD runs derated on single phase and the last owner had already used an L14-30 plug, which is odd since it was in a 3 phase setting, and clearly wired in the panel for 208 V 3 phase. So, swap the wire order to match up, and good to go.
 








 
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