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Standard/Full Keypad Setting on Fanuc OM-C

I think what you're saying is you plan to swap out the entire keypad and it's frame and electronics and replace the unit as a whole and not just a new membrane?

That's a pretty cool unit, but those connectors are not whats on the back of my OMC. It's possible they used two different manufacturers or the D is different? Maybe what Vance just said puts all this to bed.


Well, just changing the cover sheet (and param) obviously isn't going to change anything as the key layout isn't the same.
Of course I plan to replace the electronics behind it.
I was not up to speed that the first thing that I bought was just a new comforter.
I realize that it is WAY cheap for a replacement board, but I was just thinking that maybe they cleaned out a Maint Dept and there were these in there as spares.
I jumped on it so's not to lose my chance. (it was cheap)
I now see that there is many new comforters for sale at similar prices.
Having not opened it up yet, IDK exactly how thick it should have been.
I just jumped before asking how high in efforts to not lose a screamin' deal is all.
If it was $500, I wouldn't'a jumped...


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Think Snow Eh!
Ox
 
Hi the Hardinge looks like it can be upgraded to the full keypad, just to make sure how wide is it from outside edge where power buttons are to the outside edge of the keypad? If its wide enough for the bigger keypad and you buy a used mdi panel with the membrane and the key board and power buttons and used your lcd screen its a bolt in deal.
 
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Well, here is the back side of mine, and the back side of the one that I bought.
I think my chances are better with this unit as replacing the whole thing to the older style.
Not exactly the same from behind the scenes, but same connectors, so ...
Of course there is a chance that the control hasn't been updated to accept it, but we will find out.

1680747369945.pngDSCN3081.JPG
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Think Snow Eh!
Ox
 
Hi ask Vanc to be sure, but i think all the fanuc OT or OM with the small keypad can be upgraded to the large keypad as long as its the correct replacement its just a parameter change to use the full keypad. The keypad on your Hardinge looks the same as the one I changed out on my YCM lathe to the full keypad. That one you bought is different NOT SURE if it will work. I would buy the the full mdi OT panel that 13engines gave the link to. Buy a new membrane use your lcd and its a bolt in deal. Just measure your panel edge to edge how wide is it? To much sure the new one will fit. OX part of what may have screwed you up with this, is me and 13engines bought new UPGRADED replacement. They change the membrane sheet to a button style like newer controls have but it still uses the original key board behind it.
 
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The keypad in the upper pic does not have the same style connector as the 0 series. It is a metal body and the 0 uses a blue plastic body. The part number I posted earlier is what you want. It will work with either mill or lathe. The membrane sheet part number is the same with the exception that the lathe uses #T suffix.
 
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You are correct. Blue plastic.
What a cluster....

Maybe I can find the right one?
They must have offered it for a few years that way eh?

Maybe I could make up a hermaphrodite cable?


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Think Snow Eh!
Ox
 
Well, I guess I'm up to speed now....
I have searched and searched, and what I am looking for - just doesn't exist....
Otherwise I guess most of y'all would have opted to go that route as well...

With the different appearance of my keypad, and compared to my one 18 and whatnot, I was under the impression that my very late model 0 was using a newer style pad that it shared with the 16 family controls. There are many like the one that I posted last night that would fit fine - if they had the other plug.

Or a cable that had the newer on one end and the blue on the control end... (guessing that doesn't exist either?)
Or would someone like fanuccables.com be able to make a cable that would work?
16 (newer metal connector) on one end for the board, and the blue plastic on the control end?

Or better than having to pull a new cable through the whole thing, if they just built a patch cable to convert?
Is there pin-out info available?


I guess the other concern would be if the 0 would recognize signals from the mid sized board?
On a 16, are there more than one param option for keyboards?
Is the 0 options "not enough to git Jack done efficiently" or "Full Blown Monty"?
And "Good Enough" won't read correctly?



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Think Snow Eh!
Ox
 
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Yeah, that is the first one that always pops up, but not in overly good condition.

But I also think that one is likely too long for my pendant.
I likely need one without the integral spot for the ON / OFF.
I will likely opt for 2 separate bezels.

I will search in that direction next.
I will go back to Pages 1 and 2 and see if there are any measurement comparisons there as well.


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Think Snow Eh!
Ox
 
Vancbiker just saved me from posting a long one... again. What I want to ad now is that the ebay unit also gives you the frame you need. Take out the entire 20.5" of your existing panels, (Meaning everything on top) move your CRT to that frame, along with your already wired On Off buttons (if you like) then flip one bit and you're in. That keypad is in pretty good shape. You can always swap in the plastic keys from China if you want.

Ox... that unit REPLACES your current On Off panel. Look at my very early post. I had the exact same situation.
 
Ox... that unit REPLACES your current On Off panel.


I understand that.

But I need to add 3, 4, 5 more inches of keyboard on the other side.
Only so much real estate available.
Need to start building "up" if you want lake shore frontage.


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Think Snow Eh!
Ox
 
But I need to add 3, 4, 5 more inches of keyboard on the other side.

So what you're saying is it does not measure anything close to 20.5" across your control panel including the on/off panel?

EDIT IN: Re-reading your post 69, it sounds like you're after a custom install with a place for a pendant or something like that? Or are you calling your control panel a pendant?? I'm so confused. :-)
 
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No, I wouldn't say that I am looking for anything special, but I didn't know how wide the one in the link was.
Like I said - I plan to go back to the first cpl pages here and see if any of that is mentioned there.

My whole councel (it's actually a moveable pendant) does measure 20.5 outside to outside of the case.
The Fanuc section is 19.312" of that. (19" rack-mount?)


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Think Snow Eh!
Ox
 
No, I wouldn't say that I am looking for anything special, but I didn't know how wide the one in the link was.
Like I said - I plan to go back to the first cpl pages here and see if any of that is mentioned there.

My whole councel (it's actually a moveable pendant) does measure 20.5 outside to outside of the case.
The Fanuc section is 19.312" of that. (19" rack-mount?)


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Think Snow Eh!
Ox
I put one in just like the ebay one. Pretty much spans 20.5". I'm surprised that your panel isn't that wide, as you would think at the time the MTB would have offered the same machine with either keyboard using a common pendant. One with the add-in on/off panel and one without. That's how my YCM machine appeared to be built. Total plug and play.
 
OK, well, we're not both on exactly the same page here...

My actual "Fanuc" bezel and all is 15.750" wide.
The rest is just MTB plates.

Just like yours, as well as Bikers, but I'm guessing that the difference is that both of your machines could have been optioned with either the larger keyboard, or even an upgraded control that would have defaulted to a bigger keyboard. So when it was built with the smaller assembly, that the balance was blocked off.

The difference being that I don't think that the larger keyboard was an option on my machine at that time, so they didn't design around that option.


But, if yours measures 20.5", I might be able to make that work if need be.
It would just stick out a wee bit on both sides - compared to the lower HMI plates, but not really past the case.

So I will keep that option in mind.

Also, I have no plan to change CRT's and all.
I have a modern, color monitor that is much thinner.
I don't need to put a 19" B&W tube TV* in there....


*Remember watching that for many years.


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Think Snow Eh!
Ox
 
……
Just like yours, as well as Bikers, but I'm guessing that the difference is that both of your machines could have been optioned with either the larger keyboard, or even an upgraded control that would have defaulted to a bigger keyboard. So when it was built with the smaller assembly, that the balance was blocked off.

The difference being that I don't think that the larger keyboard was an option on my machine at that time, so they didn't design around that option……

In my case the operator console had just enough room for the full size Fanuc panel. Originally, there was a small panel with spindle load meter and some push buttons to the right of the standard Fanuc panel. I’ve ditched the load meter for now and relocated the push buttons into spare real estate. Had to trim some clearance along the edges of the opening and then drill and tap new mounting holes for the full size Fanuc panel.
 
On closer inspection and not using the hook of the tape measure :-) I'd say you're looking at 20 7/16 OAL and the outer most mounting holes at 20 1/16. Not that it helps much, but just so this thread has it in writing.

According to the drawing in the O Hardware Manual that I finally bothered to look at, she's 200 X 520mm, with all the mounting holes sitting 5mm in from each edge. So 510mm on the darn length, and 170mm between adjacents. 190 top to bottom.
 
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In my case the operator console had just enough room for the full size Fanuc panel. Originally, there was a small panel with spindle load meter and some push buttons to the right of the standard Fanuc panel. I’ve ditched the load meter for now and relocated the push buttons into spare real estate. Had to trim some clearance along the edges of the opening and then drill and tap new mounting holes for the full size Fanuc panel.

"console"

That looks more better, but I really wasn't after Freud'ing the folks of the counsel.


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Think Snow Eh!
Ox
 
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Ox this was why i said measure your panel, it looked just a bit smaller than mine. Mine was remove the power switch panel and use the power switches that were in the new panel and it bolted right in. That sucks if your panel is just a bit to small!!
 








 
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